This morning I tried the side-by-side egg test, comparing a supermarket-bought egg to an egg from one of Terry Golson's hens laid day before yesterday. The difference was not that striking, maybe because the store-bought egg was one of those with a little "eb" stamped on it, so it wasn't really old and stale to begin with. It was a commercially available, cage-free egg. Still, the Golson egg tasted like an egg and nothing else, while the EB egg tasted like an egg and something else, hard to pin down. I interviewed Golson yesterday, at her beautiful home and tiny, meticulous egg operation. She kindly sent me off with a dozen of her beautiful, fresh eggs. One was blue!